Life In Japan: Rice and Bean Fields

When I say I live in farm country, it’s no exaggeration.

That’s my house in the photo, and that’s my neighbor plowing the field in preparation for planting rice.  Someone very close also raises chickens.  I can hear them cawing.  Or cock-a-doodle-doing.  Or whatever chickens do.

Farmers here work hard and like boxers never know when to quit.  I’ll never forget my first visit to Sasayama as a WWOOFer back in 2007. 

I was standing outside with my host, Gen  and Ray Avery, looking onto a sweet potato field, adjacent to his property.  There were two elderly men working on tying soybean plants to keep them from flopping over on the soil.

Pointing at one of them, obviously the older of the two, Gen said, “See that old guy right there.  He’s 105.  And the other one is his son.  I think he’s 84.”

Believe it or not, they’re not an exception.  They’re the rule!  I often see both ladies and gentlemen right in my own village, well into their 80s and 90s, hunched over, some barely able to walk, doing what they do best and obviously still love:  Digging, planting, weeding, hoeing, all the myriad of activities needed to make things grow.  I guess that once farming gets into your blood, it becomes the defining theme of life itself, an essential raison d’être for these folks. 

I have to say, I’ve learned to appreciate the “cycle of life” as never before.  Of course, growing up in the temperate American Midwest, we predictably cruised through the year on the carousel of seasons.  Each one had its characteristic motif.  The contrast between sub-zero winters with two months of snow, and the other three seasons — those also dramatically contrasting with one another — was stark, and a critical component of enjoying life.

But farming in a temperate climate takes this rotation of the seasons to a whole different level. Prepping, plowing, planting, growing, harvesting not only are quite functionally interesting to a guy like me who grew up on exhaust fumes and Motown music, but the aesthetics are breathtaking.

Of course, what you see here is the early growth period.  Rice was planted about two months ago, soybeans a month ago.  Now that we’ve made it through the June rainy season — and survived massive flood-level downpours lasting six days last week — it’s just a matter of maintenance TLC until the fall harvest.

Enough talk.  First here are some of the farmers in my neighborhood.  These photos were all taken within 15 minutes of my house by bike, in every direction.

Yes, I truly live in farm country!

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And here are some landscapes, which is exactly what I see on my daily bicycle rides, which are usually between 20 km (12.4 miles) and 32 km (19.9 miles).

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Book Review: “The Russian Peace Threat: Pentagon on Alert” by Ron Ridenour

Ron Ridenour’s masterfully-written indictment of U.S. militarism and its take-all-prisoners imperial project is of such breathtaking scope and astonishing depth, it would be hard to exaggerate its value and timeliness, as the foreign policy of the Empire of Chaos now as never before in recorded history, steers the world toward apocalyptic confrontation and puts the survival of the entire human race at risk.

Those readers still in the embrace of the most toxic pile of propaganda ever assembled by a world power, that America is a force of good, spreading democracy, defending human rights, standing with the oppressed and marginalized, should have medics in the room with them to apply emergency procedures as the truth pours off the pages of this book.  Ridenour pulls no punches and with meticulous research and documentation, leaves little doubt that his narrative offers nothing less than the explicit and savage truth of over a century of exploits and exploitation.  We see brutal, barbaric, merciless application of military and economic power, with the clear and unambiguous goal of world domination — the U.S. as the ultimate empire blessed by God and history and the Fates, exempt from the rules of international law and judgment by anyone who would challenge it.  While the focus is Russia, this book covers a lot more ground, offering glimpses into many theaters of confrontation and conflict: China, Japan, Indonesia, Vietnam, of course the Middle East, as well as many countries in its more immediate sphere of influence, Central and South America.  With its 800+ bases currently sprawling across the planet, we’re hard-pressed to find anywhere where the heavy foot of American power does not exercise its self-serving prerogative.

Those readers who already are familiar with the scope of U.S. hypocrisy, who understand that behind the smiley face of official beneficence and goodness lies an agenda that serves a ruling elite at the expense of the vast number of everyday citizens, both inside the U.S. and out, will still benefit enormously from this book.  Much of it might constitute a refresher course, but I suspect many, myself included, will be pleasantly — or unpleasantly — rewarded with both disturbing factual knowledge and Ridenour’s fresh insights and analysis.  It may be for such readers “preaching to the choir” but I’ve never heard a choir that didn’t need to be tuned up from time to time.

Ridenour quotes “The Naked Human”, a poem written by Gustav Munch-Petersen.

I am only a human
but I shall one day
raise earth’s mountains
and let them shake
in the ears of those who sleep

I am only a human
but I shall one day
take the sun down from heaven
and light up all the dark holes
with merciless white light

I am only a human
but I shall one day
steal the gods lightning
and sweep the earth clean of dust

If I may do some metaphorical borrowing, I’d say that with The Russian Peace Threat: Pentagon on Alert Ron Ridenour has raised some mountains, taken the sun down from heaven, and stolen lightning from the gods.  Let’s hope his exceptional scholarship and writing wakes up some people, lights up the dark holes, and sweeps away the dust.

Our survival as a species depends on it.

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Book Review: “Healing the Land with Tao” by Gary Lindorff

“We are like quantum physicists, acknowledging that our presence, or our consciousness, can, and does change the reality of everything that we interact with. But poets and dreamers go way beyond that: We want to affect the great experiment. We go out of our way to change it because we yearn for it to succeed! … We have learned that when we look at the world, it looks back…. We have learned that when we step into the world, the energy of the world does more than just support us, it gathers ecstatically around our feet, it pulls and pushes us to interact and engage and feel.” – Gary Lindorff

I studied metaphysics as part of my degree program in philosophy.  Comparative religions, existentialism got some air time, with token nods to classical ancient philosophy, all of which added to a cornucopia of possible, if implausibly and highly impractical, world views.  In my youthful impatience, enamored as I was with post-modernism and the miraculous leaps of technology I was witnessing, I found this extremely distracting, in fact downright annoying, since they all borrowed much from the prevailing mythologies of long expired physical empires and intellectual traditions.  I judged that unfortunately, as building blocks for the formal architecture of Western thought, they ultimately lay a much too durable foundation for the centuries of cul-de-sac erudition and tedious sophistry which characterizes much of formal philosophical inquiry.

How could I be so dismissive?  Well, I was young and impressionable and fell in with a bad crowd, hence discovered the 20th Century tools which would undermine the entire basis for asking the “big questions”, a methodology which smugly rendered the entire pursuit of philosophical understanding henceforth a fool’s quest.  This was the suite of WMDs known among what I would now consider the anarchists of modern philosophy, the ordinary language analysis storm troopers.  These were the brash, anti-establishment butchers of speculative and normative traditions from Plato to Russell, Aristotle to Whitehead, Aquinas to Kant, Hegel, Hume, Locke, and Descartes.  All these silly old fools were targets of a faddish but no less galvanizing snideness and smug derision, they were the laughingstock of a rip-roaring dialectical rodeo, purveyors of the philosophical joke that went on too long, creators of reams and reams of mind-numbing argumentation and treatises, producing one punch line after another, an endless rolling carnival which had ultimately become dated and irrelevant and frankly not any longer very entertaining.

I was so cloistered in this cult that at university, I was totally unaware of Noam Chomsky’s political work.  He was merely a gateway drug for the work of J.L. Austin and Ludwig Wittgenstein, and their mechanistic mauling and demolition of philosophical problems using language analysis.  Talk about taking the creative excitement out of philosophy and turning it into a crossword puzzle or a good game of Scrabble!  But infantry soldiers don’t debate political systems.  They shoot to kill.

I eventually recovered.  Now I’ve settled into merely being a materialist.  That’s not ‘materialistic’.  I’m far from that, trust me. But I live and function primarily — we’re talking 99.9999% — in a material world. In my crucial formative years, science was with exponential leaps proving its potency.  Relativism — modulated by logical positivism — was the new black.  Empiricism won the day. Computers would eventually eliminate grey with the efficacy of binary.  Now the God Particle joins the other billiard balls on the cosmic pool table and blockchain is even redefining what money is.  I should regress to reading Tarot cards?  I didn’t in the least miss the rabbits foot I had lost as a boy.  Now I had a iPad.

Yep, I’m hooked.  Smitten.  Sold.  Even if it doesn’t produce a very charming death bed scene, I’ll go with science over seance.  Magic and miracles are for the desultory denialists and the leisurely lulled.

So . . .

This is what I brought to the game as I began to work my way through Healing the Land with Tao, looking for places to insert my toes and outcroppings for my fingertips, so I could begin the healing climb.  I wasn’t even sure I wanted to do this. Was there a view at the top?

But hallelujah!  Because Gary Lindorff is so lucid, his writing so accessible, much to my surprise and relief I found I didn’t need any special skills, footholds and finger-friendly features, much less safety nets or rappeling gear.

Frankly, the far-reaching explorations in this book arrive on their own terms, self-packaged, user-friendly, turnkey savvy.  Because the “things” in the nature of things are syllogistically and ultimately “personal” — if I can use such a mundane word — and whether we choose to ignore them or not, most of what he talks about constitutes with or without our acknowledgement, the entire foundation for that epic collection of experiences we call ‘life’.

There’s a great quote that sums up what I’m trying to say here.  It opens Chapter 5:

Where are we? We are in the middle world. Is it the same place for you as it is for me?”

This is fascinating on a number of levels.  The second question, of course, alludes to the essential epistemological quandary.

Yet in the framework of the Taoist perspective we are prompted to ask:  Despite all of the hand-wringing by philosophers that has transpired over the centuries over this, is this really something that needs to be resolved?  While it’s an intrinsic component — some might say consuming pathology — of Western intellectual tradition to leave no problem unsolved, no question unanswered, such obsessive-compulsive behavior has often produced more conceptual havoc, confusion and directionless daydreaming, than comforting, satisfying results.

Because if there is certainty about anything, it is about this:  Ultimately, this question is unsolvable and even modeling its unsolvability results in an incomprehensible formulation.  Such an overarching analysis may indeed be entirely correct.  But it still remains incomprehensible.  Such are the limitations of the human mind.  I think of my cat, who would prefer I ball up pages containing the mathematics of general relativity so he could chase them across our polished wood floor.  There’s an analog in that example that applies neatly to human beings, if we’re humble enough to admit it into our normally pompous, self-congratulatory view of ourselves, and embrace it for the peace of mind it ultimately could offer.  Real Buddhists get this.  Taoists too.

So I accept that the world that Gary Lindorff lives in and experiences is the same world I live in and experience, though I may not see and experience it that way.

Chapter 5 ends with this:

 The tonal is something we all share; nothing can be gained by brushing it aside unless it has become dangerous and toxic to our well-being. It is the great collective dream that grounds us, it is the ‘here’ we call home. But one’s experience of the nagual – that is unique.”

When discussing a couplet by Basho, Lindorff again delves into the impenetrable nature of perceptual ambiguities:

“It is as if an ineffable fragrance were rising from the couplet and quietly flowing on. . . . This mysterious fragrance reminds us that nobody experiences anything exactly the same. It is ineffable because it is indefinable, and we don’t want to define it, as then we are trying to objectify or package it.”

Oh how we objectify and package — and with vile insensitivity commodify — everything now.  Supposedly nothing should be left to chance or interpretation.  What kind of out-of-control world would it be were human imagination to run free, the boundaries of quantization and digitization penetrated and pierced by purity of spirit and innocence of intention?

Oh yes! Sheer chaos!  (Or so my university mentors would scream.)

I’m trapped between dualities which shouldn’t — maybe don’t — a priori exist.

My flippant gravitas says I should walk the straight and narrow, gaze unwavering as I walk the rigid dialectic plank of logical positivism.  Admittedly, this is harsh irony for someone who doesn’t just like to get outside the box, but thrives on turning back on it and dousing it with napalm.  On the other hand, my quixotic side indeed prompts me to appreciate such poetic and abstruse musings as we find in Healing the Land with Tao, attaching to them gracious vindication for the ontological bipolarity that has engulfed me over the years — oh forgive me, all who’ve endured my ponderous pontifications and apocalyptic opuses — to abandon cold cynicism and surrender to the seduction of mysteries I cannot access, much less comprehend and resolve: Just leap and learn to fly.  Or embrace the certainty of gravity in a world so anxious and insecure behind its mask of arrogant stolidity.

After all . . .

Who am I to look a gift horse in the mouth?  How humbling it truly is to peer into Gary Lindorff’s world, to vicariously — perhaps several layers removed — share with him a reality to which I’m deaf and blind, therefore rendered too myopic and mute to intelligently analyze and discuss.

Then again . . .

Why should I be so gracious?  Shouldn’t I just snarl and sneer, make some snarky aside, and get on with the business of living amongst vertically-mobile beings armed with smart phones, steadily making improvements on self-driving cars, taking selfies — soon to be in 3-D? — and dumping them into the streaming deluge of irrelevance which keeps most of us so amazed with ourselves that we no longer have a need to appreciate a flower, a tree, a sunset, a smile, a child, an invisible voice whispering words of wisdom and warning, comfort and distress, light and dark, yin and yang?  A voice as lucid as it is inscrutable, as certain as it is ambiguous and suspect, as candid as it is taciturn?

Gary Lindorff can hear the voices in the wind, the secret histories of the trees, the song in the earth, all that fulfills the promise of that entire universe created in Seven Days, so one trending mythology would have it.

Words.  Are we talking about enchantment . . . delusion . . . fantasy . . . actualization . . . transubstantiation . . . an alchemy that transforms the soul, an amalgamation?  Does the right word make any difference?

Here’s a word which is not, cannot, nor should it ever be resolved, fixed or finalized: Possible.

That alludes to the essential reward to me personally for reading this fine work by Gary Lindorff.

As a logical positivist, an empiricist, a pragmatist, I can only be grateful that these afflictions have not entirely closed me off to what is possible.

Because isn’t possibility that vast expanse into which we grow as humans, becoming gradually, irreversibly what we never imagined we could become?

Gary writes:

“Lucidity is the ability to enter into consciousness as a dimension.”

What does that mean?  Does it mean the same to you as it does to me?

Can we know?  Can we prove that knowing is some end-all, even necessary?  Some questions will never be answered.  At the same time, some answers may be orphaned, bereft of questions.  We may already have all of the answers.  We may have too many answers.  The world the human mind fashions is brimming with answers.  Some sing.  Some dance.  Some just quietly inform all that we experience.

“Let me suggest that a masterful haiku is a super-metaphor. We are given what we need to make the leap. When we encounter a super-metaphor in a poem or as a poem (whether by Rilke, Basho or Emily Dickinson) it reboots our imagination, tricking the brain into taking a leap of faith from what it already knows to what the soul knows, and this benefits the brain in the same way that advanced yoga benefits the body. If we are lucky, that experience is ecstatic.”

Intentionally or not, Gary Lindorff has created a loosely structured operating manual for the soul.

We’ll all get different messages and meanings.  We will benefit disproportionately.  I’m admittedly not very well-prepared for a work of such spiritual depth and profundity, such bold, a priori, ecstatic leaps.  My materialist world view puts the best aspects of that collection of energy that is John Rachel, in solitary confinement.  The food is pretty lousy in here, the walls are gun-metal gray, and I don’t get much to read.  But if I could choose only one book to help break the chains of my mental and spiritual incarceration, it would be Healing the Land with Tao.

In a word, Gary Lindorff’s book is brilliant.  It made an honest man out of a logical positivist like me.

How is that for the healing power of the Tao?

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Life In Japan: Sports Festivals

Above is the annual sports festival at a local junior high school here in Sasayama. These much-anticipated events take place at every school in the country around the middle of September — even pre-school and kindergarten!

To say they’re popular is an understatement. They are as much part of the fabric of social life here as eating rice and fish.

The events at a Japanese sports festival include some “normal” sports contests, e.g. relay races, tug-of-war, team rope jumping. But they as well have quite an assortment of unique, and I have to say, quite amusing activities I wouldn’t expect to show up in the Olympics anytime soon. There’s the hacky sack basket toss, the three-legged kick-the-ball then shoot-a-hoop match, a relay race carrying a tennis ball on a tennis racket while running at full-speed around the circumference of the field.

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Sports festivals are not restricted to just students. Villages compete against one another, meaning full-grown adults also participate in the action. I can’t say the village I live in does very well in these competitions. We may have the most geriatric team in all of Japan. But we have a great time, which is mainly what these all-ages competitive events are all about.

Here’s a mercifully short video of my legendary performance at a recent community sports festival. If it’s not entirely obvious, my challenge — for which I trained with the best coaches east of Nagasaki — was to inflate a balloon, pop it by sitting on it, then scramble back to the starting line, tagging my next teammate in line, who we hoped would repeat my gold medal-level performance, and lock in first place for this epic showdown.

What can I say? It seems no matter what the season is, there’s always something going on here, and whatever it is is typically is built around some excuse for people to get together, have a good time, and simply enjoy the company of those living in the community.

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Life In Japan: Western Food

Eat, Pray, Die!

There’s no doubt about it. In its greasy, salty, sugary way, Western food tastes great!

Or at least many seem to think so . . . even here in Asia.

This isn’t to suggest that Western food, especially fast food, is in the least healthy. It’s not. Countries which adopt a Western diet — surprise surprise! — end up with a skyrocketing of diseases that are the main killers in the West: high blood pressure, diabetes, hardening of the arteries, heart failure, cancer, obesity.

Health concerns aside, it still astonishes me that standing in Beijing or Tokyo or Seoul, I see McDonald’s, Burger King, and KFC. I never ate at these places when I lived in the U.S. — well, at least for the past several decades — and certainly don’t miss them now that I live in Japan and continue to travel extensively in the East. Of course, the “Westernization” — and its most aggressive mutant strain “Americanization” — of every square inch of the planet, is common knowledge and endlessly debated pro and con. At the same time, the extent of this cultural pollution still doesn’t really hit you until you go tens of thousands of miles from home and see some typical U.S. fast food joint next to a Buddhist temple, or yellow arches thrown in with pagodas on the city skyline.

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Even more astonishing to me is observing Western tourists. Here they are in some exotic place, rich in culture and unique tradition — which most certainly is reflected in what the indigenous people eat — and there they are in their Hard Rock Café Los Angeles t-shirts, Billabong surfer shorts and Nike sneakers, lining up for a Big Mac and fries. I’ve even seen blogs where backpackers discuss in detail the variations in the Burger King or McDonald’s menus across the globe. I’m not here to judge. But I can’t help but think that maybe these ethnocentric homeland food junkies might be missing out on something.

So far I’ve been focusing on fast food. That’s because it’s so popular, especially in America. Good or bad, America leads the charge into the dystopian future of hedonistic monomania and instant gratification. What could be better than a Happy Meal or finger-licking good fried chicken from Colonel Sanders’ secret recipe? Actually I have an answer for that . . .

Everything else! . . . but that’s just me.

The other end of the spectrum of dining out is also well-represented in Asia, as it is just about every place else in our globalized, homogenized world. There are many high-quality, sometimes very pricey, real restaurants in Japan, serving all sorts of cuisine from all sorts of places. We have Italian, French, Russian, Belgian, Greek, Swedish, Mexican. Because Japanese are such perfectionists, the food is always good. It may not be very authentic — I’m still waiting to be truly blown away by a Japanese rendering of American-style pizza — but trust me, on its own terms it’s usually quite delicious.

With that in mind, I know of one notable exception to this critical assessment. There’s a restaurant which serves both incredibly tasty Western food and it’s centerpiece menu item is most definitely as authentic as it gets. As luck would have it, this place happens to be right here in my home town of Sasayama!

That’s right. It’s a bagel restaurant: RH Bagels!

Mind you, it’s more-often-than-not hard to get a truly great bagel even in the U. S. of A.

Sometimes they’re hard as a rock. Sometimes they have the right texture, tensile strength, and viscosity, but taste more like a dinner roll or a part of an old shoe. Or they’re flavored with all sorts of fruits, nuts, seeds and spices to hide the fact that whoever made it doesn’t know the first thing about making bagels.

In any case, RH Bagel manages somehow here in the middle of rural Japan to get it right. It’s owned by Richie and Hiro — hence the ‘R’ and the ‘H’ — who not only serve amazing food but have created a marvelous setting, a cultural mix of America and Japan, featuring jazz music, great decor, and enough plants to pass for a horticulture institute. The roots of the restaurant are deeply Japanese, as the building is an old rice barn. But everything else is Western-style. Richie is from Staten Island, New York and Hiro has been to America a number of times to study the art and science of restaurant management and cuisine.

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I love Japanese food! I really do. I now regularly eat many things I would have regarded as very special treats for very special occasions — sushi, tempura, edamame, teriyaki — and eat some things I never would have considered before — octopus, squid, rice daily.

But every once in a while, I get that hankering for the flavors of North America. It’s hardly an addiction, more of a diversion. I make no excuses. Six decades had to have made some impression on my eating habits and tastes.

It’s just that now, everything has flipped around. Now it’s a hamburger or bagel that’s the uncommon special treat or the item deemed for a rare special occasion. Sushi is available 24/7 just about anywhere that sells food — supermarkets and convenience stores like 7-11.

Hmm . . .

I wonder how eel sushi and cream cheese would taste on a cranberry bagel with French fries, Hawaiian pizza and pickled radish on the side. Maybe wash that down with a Coke and sake ice cream float.

I need to talk with Richie and Hiro about this.

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Life In Japan: The Nesting Tree

We have an enormous variety of birds here in Japan.  Not just homegrown types.  Some very interesting breeds, for example, migrate from China and Siberia.  Colorful, exotic, fascinating to watch.  My house is on the edge of a forest, in a very quiet setting.  I often just sit and view them from my rear window as they come and go.

There are two large, majestic birds that most definitely migrated here many decades ago but now are permanent residents.  They can be seen everywhere, along the riverbanks, in the rice fields, soaring high overhead above our rustic town.

I’m referring to the great egrets and gray herons, which must number in the hundreds here in Sasayama.

They have a nesting tree — actually several in various locations in the region — very close to my home.  I pass it everyday when I ride into town to buy groceries and other sundries. 

Every spring the great egrets build nests, lay eggs, and give birth to their next generation.  I’ve never seen any gray herons there.  I’m not certain where their maternity ward is.

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Anyway, here’s a short movie.  Both Tom Cruise and Bruce Willis turned me down for the lead role.  It is what it is.






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Life In Japan: Western Arts – Pt 2

This is a photograph of my wife, Masumi, at age 20 singing Il Bacio by Italian composer Luigi Arditi.  She has been singing opera all her life, plays beautiful classical piano, and dances ballet as a pastime.

I find it a fascinating question why Japan is so enamored with Western art forms, not that I’ve made any progress coming close to a conclusive answer.

Of course, Japan has always been an eclectic culture.  It has adopted much from the West, including English letters and words, integrated via Romanji, one of their alphabets.  Entire English words were Japanized and have become a part of the ever-evolving vocabulary, e.g. resutoran レストラン (restaurant), aisukurimu アイスクリーム (ice cream).  Going way back, certainly quite a bit has been “borrowed” from the Chinese, most notably, Kanji, another of the alphabets in everyday use.  And in the 19th Century, Japan replaced its cumbersome numbering system with Western Arabic integers.

All of this is the normal cross-pollination of cultures, which occurs when borders become more permeable, trade encouraged and opportunities for tourism pervasive.

Yet, there are some things that either don’t translate well, resist integration, because they are simply entirely incompatible with established social traditions and cultural legacies. 

Westerners are touchy-feely, given to open, sometimes histrionic expressions of emotion.  Japan is entirely the opposite.  I suspect it will always remain so.  A respect for privacy in both directions, each individual’s large inviolable personal space, shyness and reserve, all are too thoroughly entrenched in the Japanese psyche.  Yes, they may dress like Westerners here, but you’re not going to see chest-bumping or hugs and kisses at the mall, or simulated sex on the dance floor.  It’s just not going to happen.  Bowing is about as wildly intimate as it gets in public.

That, of course, is an example of steadfast social training. 

But I would have suspected that another type of training would be just as determinant.  I’m referring to ear training.

The Japanese scales — actually all Asian scales — are microtonal.  When they don’t sound randomly annoying, they sound intentionally grating, at least to my Western ears.  I’m just not used to hearing — literally not trained to hear — the two or three notes that purposely occur between C and C# or between E and F.  I’ll admit that in my band days I was often accused of tuning my guitar microtonally but that was just a way of saying I had a really lousy sense of pitch.

Regardless of how much their melodies may torment us Westerners, Asians will swear by the beauty of the music they create and listen to.  Their ears are trained to hear, accept, embrace what sounds cosmically wrong to us.

At the same time, Western music and the fundaments for making it have gripped Japan.  And in every form: pop, rock, jazz, classical, blues, rap, hip hop.

Recognize that there are Western arts chauvinists who would say this is inevitable.  They will make a very convincing argument that Western scales are fundamentally superior, more accessible and natural to the homo sapiens physiological mechanisms involved in processing music.

There is a very appealing mathematics to the Western scale.  The 37th key on an 88-key piano is A.  It vibrates at 220 cycles per second (Hz).  The 49th key is also an A, but it’s one octave above, vibrating at 440 Hz.  The 25th key is an A that’s one octave below, vibrating at 110 Hz.  Nifty, eh?  This suggests the mathematical foundation underlying the tonal relationships among the notes of the Western 12-tone scale.  In fact, this holds together quite nicely until we get to the very bottom and top of the useful musical range.  The math has to be adjusted a bit.  Pianos tuned to mathematical perfection tend to sound sharp at the very top and bottom, requiring at the extremes that the scale be “stretched” to make the piano sound in tune to the human ear.  This is not a flaw in the mathematics.  It’s a consequence of the physical properties of the strings of the piano, a stiffness which causes inharmonicity at the extremes.  Thus this need to “temper” the scale doesn’t diminish the essential elegance of the theory.

Zeebra, a very popular hip hop artist here in Japan (Click on pic to see a video.)

So as I say, it’s easy for music experts in the West, the ones juxtaposing Fibonacci spiral graphs on the human cochlea, to posit the intrinsic superiority of a viola over a shamisen, an oboe over a hichiriki, or a flugel horn over a horagai, put in the service of playing the Sound of Music.

They may be right.  But the bottom line is there’s really no way to objectively settle the matter.  An anecdotal aside:  I mentioned to my wife the other day that one of my English students sings Japanese folk songs to me.  The lady is very proud of her voice and the songs she had spent her life mastering.  My wife asked me if they were traditional or modern folk songs.  I didn’t know there was a difference.  Turns out that traditional folk songs are the original microtonal versions.  Now there are modern versions of those folk songs which make the melodies fit the Western 12-note scale.  Think about that!  They take these amazing songs from time immemorial and update them — literally Westernize them musically — for the prevailing tastes of contemporary Japanese listeners.

This seems to suggest some greater inherent appeal in the mathematically-based music system of the West.  But I say it’s just a sign of the times.  We have Burger King in Beijing, KFC in Kuala Lumpur, McDonald’s in Moscow.  There are rappers and hip hop artists in every country that has electricity, except maybe Bhutan

My wife, Masumi, of course continues to teach Westernized music to elementary students in a nearby community here in Japan, as part of the official school curriculum.  The kids play recorders, xylophones, accordions, keyboards, snares, bass drums, bongos, congas, and other percussion — all instruments from the West. And since she still loves singing, she even gives an occasional vocal performance under the auspices of the vocal teacher she’s studied with for three decades.  Usually she sings opera, though she occasionally helps me out on my original songs, in my informal home recording studio.

Here she is earlier this year in concert at a gathering in Osaka.






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Life In Japan: Western Arts – Pt 1

Japanese Lady Gaga fans are slightly insane!

This is not going to be a formal or particularly thorough discussion of Western art forms here in Japan.  In fact, it’ll be largely anecdotal but nevertheless I believe an accurate portrayal of the odd juxtaposition of the unambiguously Western art forms and styles on a culture with its own unique rich heritage, which not in the least resembles or had been influenced by Euro-America until Japan finally was “opened” to the West 165 years ago.  Significant Westernization occurred in two peak periods:  From 1868-1900 during the Meiji restoration, and from 1945 until the present following the Allied victory over Japan ending World War II.  This resulted in modern Japan, where Kibuki Theater and geishas co-exist with American-style pro wrestling and Japanese hip-hop.

My wife, Masumi, perfectly embodies the contradiction, though unlike most contradictions there are no discernible incompatibilities or anomalies.  ‘Contradiction’ is really the wrong term.  Because all that is contradicted are my expectations.  I’ll get to Masumi in Part 2, as she deserves an entire article of her own.

Long before I ever knew I’d be coming to and then settling in Japan, I received some early inklings about Japan’s love affair with the West, meaning not just its superficial courtship of dress and hair styling, but its thorough embrace of both formal and pop arts.  

I was taking jazz dance classes at Debbie Reynolds Studios — yes, that Debbie Reynolds — in Los Angeles, and one summer a plane load of young Japanese jazz dancers (late teens, early twenties) packed the classes.  To put it mildly, I was amazed, stunned, awed!  Not only were they physically perfect as dancers — slender; strong, sinewy muscles; elegant posture; each individually radiating grace and vigor, coupled with a charming shyness — they could really dance!

I also wistfully recall one of my favorite dance teachers mentioning that he loved taking on guest teaching positions in Japan, because the students were so fiercely dedicated and disciplined.  When he’d return from such an assignment, he’d jokingly count off our dance routines in Japanese:  ichi, ni, san, yon!  While we thought that was pretty darn cute, I never gave it all that much thought.  Japan just wasn’t on my radar screen back then.

At the same time, it was no secret that Western performers, in particular pop and rock acts — everyone from the Beatles, Cindi Lauper, Santana, Carpenters, Michael Jackson, ABBA, Rolling Stones, and Avril Lavigne, to Ozzy Osborne and Bob Dylan — loved playing Japan.  All reported that Japanese audiences were enthusiastic and they felt truly appreciated.

Get this:  Even jazz artists like Chick Corea, Art Blakey, Oscar Peterson, Sonny Clark, Miles Davis, Billie Holiday, Bill Evans, and John Coltrane had and often still have impressive fan bases in Japan.

Much more popular and widespread than jazz is classical music.  During my first full year in Japan, I was invited to attend a piano recital.  I don’t know what that sounds like to you but I assumed it would be a bunch of cute kids fumbling their way through simple songs, their adoring parents taking videos for the grandparents.  Right.  Try concert-level Chopin, Mozart, Brahms, Beethoven.  And these were just high school students!  Turns out that studying piano from a very young age is pervasive here — piano lessons with a focus on eventually mastering the legends, for example, those just mentioned.  Japan has, of course, already produced a number of widely-acclaimed, world-class musicians and composers, and believe it or not, Tokyo alone hosts “no fewer than eight full-size, full-time, fully professional orchestras, collectively providing more than 1,200 concerts a year.”

Getting back to dance . . .

I’ve been a longstanding fan.  I saw my first ballet in high school.  Not only did I take some jazz classes for ten years starting in 1985, I even dabbled in both modern and ballet over the years.  The great ballet dancers like Baryshnikov, Nureyev, Fonteyn, Markova, have always fascinated me.

That being the case, about a year ago I became acquainted with a fellow who is not well known in the West, but in my opinion may be one of the best ballet dancers ever!  His name is Kumakawa Tetsuya.  Born in Hokkaido, Japan, he studied in England and became a principal dancer with the Royal Ballet, before returning to Japan to form his own ballet company.  Feast your eyes on a man who seems able to rewrite the laws of gravity . . .

. . . and make challenging moves breathtakingly beautiful and inhumanly effortless . . .

There are two Japanese ballerinas, who despite being in my opinion, among the best in the world, are not exactly household names in the West.

Kuranaga Misa . . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gnEXTcBojk

. . . and Nakamura Shoko . . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxiHzXM7yxQ

Pretty amazing, eh?

If there is an unspoken, but nonetheless dutifully-regarded and rigorously-observed rule in play governing just about every act, action, activity, ambition, and endeavor here, it’s this:  Whatever the Japanese do, they do well.  They are maddening perfectionists.  Many would say this is why Japan was able to rebuild so quickly and totally after World War II, eventually becoming the world’s third largest economy.  Others would attribute Japan’s high suicide rate to the extreme pressures of high performance and achievement.

Both would be right.






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Life In Japan: White Day

Japan is a gift-giving culture.  There are hardly any occasions for which it is not customary or at least acceptable to proffer a gift.  A visit, a lunch at someone’s house, health issues, news of even the lightest import — new pet, new home, new car, new set of dentures,  — knitting socks, harvesting soybeans, a near traffic accident.  Yes, I had a lady almost hit me on my bicycle with her car — she slammed on her brakes and literally stopped with her bumper against my pant leg — track me down (not very hard since I’m the only elderly Westerner in the area with Rod Stewart hair), and leave a bag of eggplants on my porch.  Add this abundance of uniquely Japanese magnanimity to the conventional observances which most modern developed economies share and have duly exploited to nauseating levels of melodrama and sentimentality — weddings, funerals, graduations,  anniversaries, birthdays, Christmas, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day — means hefty dividends for anyone heavily invested in industries making gift-wrapping, ribbons and bows.

Amplifying the initial impetus for graciousness and generosity driving the whole gifting frenzy — evidently hard-wired into Japanese people — the act of giving a gift triggers a immediate, requisite response, a reciprocation in kind, the product of heart-felt appreciation for the original gesture:  The ‘thank-you-for-the gift’ gift.

“どうもありがとうございました!”  (Thank you so very much!)

“どういたしまして!”   (You are indeed very welcome!)

It is beyond any dispute:  If gift-giving were for some mysterious reason to suddenly come to a halt here, the entire Japanese economy would collapse within hours.

One month after Valentines Day in Japan — meaning March 14th — we have White Day. 

White Day is the occasion for the guys to give to the girls sweet treats and other simple gifts, payback for bestowing on them piles of chocolate and other heart-shaped confections on February 14th.

Is it tit-for-tat?  Do guys at least for this simple, rather innocent holiday put their chauvinism on hold, do the expected thing by giving a thank-you-for-the gift’ gift?

Some do.  Others ignore most of the girls who’ve been generous with them and just give a White Day treat to the one(s) they’re interested in, as in viewing with something remotely resembling romantic interest.

Whatever the case, while diabetes is on the increase here in Japan, afflicting around 6% of the population, it still is ranks far behind the three leaders:  India, China, and the U.S.

Not that many people worry about the insulinary efficiency of their pancreas on either Valentines or White Day.  That would probably be true just about anywhere in the world.

Time for a Snickers bar, anyone?






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Life In Japan: Valentine’s Day

日本の女の子たちはとても素敵です! 彼らは西洋で失われた無実を持っています。Japan, like most Eastern cultures is very patriarchal, bordering on officially sanctioned misogyny.  I could go on and on about why this is so, despite the extreme Westernization and “modernization” of the country.  But it would be pure speculation.  Certainly, much of it is born out of deep and longstanding traditions generated during the tribalism of pre-history.  But I suspect the modern manifestation of male dominance imbedded in male-female relations is now more a product of extreme insecurity and a sense of inadequacy by boys and men — collectively borne at a very sub-conscious level, of course — than it is a reflection of the inheritance of rigorous structural societal norms.  This probably sounds like extremely superficial pop psychology, masking as a gracious critique.  But I’m hardly apologizing for what I observe might be vagina envy or something even more ridiculously unflattering and ultimately embarrassing or pernicious. 

Isn’t there a homily that goes like this?:  We worship that which flatters us, love what we can dominate, ridicule what we find puzzling, lash out at what we don’t understand, enslave and torment that which reminds us how pitiful and primitive we ultimately are.

They celebrate Valentines Day here — it’s a distinctly Japanese version of the love holiday — which like everything else in the U.S. has been turned into just more marketing, churning out of kitsch, and indulging in commodified histrionics.  Pumping up the GDP is the only reason for anything and everything, after all.  They’ll be putting a meter on my love muscle and collecting a surtax any day now.

Right in line with everything that goes on here, especially involving human interaction, there’s a sweet innocence to Valentines Day, remindful of a time before my time and thus not something I can duly remember.  But think of Frank Capra movies and extrapolate.

It’s innocent to be sure, but the guys are still in charge.  Yes, on Valentines Day, the guys in Japan just sit back and the girls pile it on — chocolate, that is.  From what I can tell, none of the giving is based on hot passion, hot sex, hot anticipation.  Basically, the message is:  “I’m a girl and you’re a boy and you’re not all that bad.”  Or maybe:  “I like you.  I think.  Call me maybe?”

As an English teacher, I got my share of Valentines chocolates from ladies of all ages.  Yes, I mean ALL ages.  From 7 years old to 60, 70, and beyond!

And all I was obligated to do was collect it, smile, say ありがとうございました (thank you so very much), then eat it at my convenience.

I almost felt guilty about all of the attention.

Then again . . .

There’s a payback.  But it’s very asymmetrical.  It happens exactly one month later.

March 14th is called White Day. 

Stay tuned.  






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