Life In Japan: Onsen

Granted, it took me sixty years to figure it out. But yes, it was worth the wait. I say . . .

The onsen is the greatest invention in human history!

Salad Shooter™

Okay . . . okay . . . maybe that’s a bit extreme. After all, there’s the wheel, the combustion engine, the computer. The salad shooter!

Having said that, the onsen still has to be somewhere up there in the Top 20.

An onsen — 温泉 — is a hot spring for bathing. And I have to say, I had no idea what I was missing until my first visit to Japan in July 2007. That was in Nagano Prefecture, where I was a WWOOFing volunteer at an organic farm/restaurant called Canadian Farm.

A little history: My first introduction to the onsen was a chapter in a hilariously funny book by one of my favorite humor writers, a volume called Dave Barry Does Japan. I can still feel his discomfort, his utter humiliation, sitting in a pool of steaming hot water with a bunch of strangers, naked except for folded towels draped over their heads. In fact, I can still recall my discomfort and humiliation my own first time in Nagano! Of course, that was purely the result of my own narrow conditioning, my being uptight, self-conscious, squeamish, and completely ridiculous, the product of growing up a pathetic urban hick in the hypocritically Puritan anti-culture of the American Midwest.

But enough about me and growing up in the shaming buzzkill of Detroit, Michigan.

In 2007, I quickly discovered that onsens are as much a defining characteristic of Japan as sushi, geishas, tofu, Mt. Fuji, and sumo wrestling.

There are hundreds — maybe thousands — of onsens scattered across the volcanic landscape here. Americans go skiing. Or to the beach. Or Disneyland. Japanese go to onsens, often for an extended holiday. There are whole towns full of resort hotels catering to this ritual.

Onsens come in all shapes and sizes. Some indoors, some outdoors. Some are spartan. Others indulge in lavish aesthetics and connecting with nature.

Our favorite local onsen — there are three relatively close to town — is on the way to Kyoto, maybe a twenty-five minute drive. It’s called Rurikei. While the attached resort is relatively fancy, the baths themselves are purely functional. Mostly indoor but a few outdoor pools.

Rurikei has no stunning mountain or rocky river rapids vistas. But it’s very functional, with a decent-size swimming pool, steam baths, saunas, refreshments, even massages.

One of the main reasons we really love this place is that, unlike 99% of other such facilities, it’s co-ed! Yes, it’s a family affair with males, females, moms, dads, kids, all ages, all sizes. Of course, everyone wears a bathing suit. On the other hand, if a person prefers a more traditional setting, each dressing area has bathing pools, men only and women only, where everyone lets everything hang out as they hang out in the hot water together. There are even huge flat-panel televisions, so there’s no excuse for missing a favorite sporting event or cooking show.

I marvel every time I go. I leave feeling renewed, relaxed, refreshed. And clean! I’ve never ever felt so clean, as when I walk out after an hour or so at a Japanese hot spring.

By the way, it’s not just us humans who are totally enamored with relaxing in the steamy hot, therapeutic water of an onsen.

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Life In Japan: Festivals

Masumi at the Daikokuji Tea Festival

While Japan is called The Land of the Rising Sun, my personal preference actually would be The Land of the Festivals.  The entire calendar is littered with fascinating, extremely entertaining, family-oriented festivals.

I can think of no equivalent in the U.S. to what goes on here.  Yes, we have rock festivals and various other extravaganzas.  But they are very specific to a type of event and usually local.  Here in Japan, the festivals are both a local and a national phenomenon.  

Festival of the Portable Shrines

Some local festivals are unique to a town or region.  Here in Sasayama, we have the Wild Boar Festival that fits into that category.  Not really too many wild boars running loose in Osaka or Tokyo that I know of.  We also have our Black Bean Festival, because Sasayama is renowned across Japan for the quality of its soybeans (black beans are soybeans which have ripened and dried on the vine and are black in color).

Cherry Blossom Festival

The big festivals are national.  Yes each locale or region has a celebration.  But the festival being celebrated usually is being celebrated across all of Japan at the same time.  Examples of this are the Cherry Blossom Festival early April and the Festival of the Portable Shrines in late October.

Obon is yet another national celebration, actually an annual Buddhist event first half of August, commemorating one’s ancestors.  It is one of the three busiest times of the year in Japan for travel and taking a holiday break.  Everywhere in Japan, there are Obon festivals being held.

This year, my wife Masumi and I headed north to Tohoku for two weeks of camping and attending some of the most famous of these Obon events in the country.

Everywhere we went, there were fireworks, parades, singing and dancing.  Here are a few of the highlights.

Aomori

This is reputed to be one of the most spectacular festivals in Japan.  The giant internally-lit paper floats are astonishing.  The crowd is rowdy — well, as rowdy as it gets here in Japan — the drumming tribal.  Quite a show!

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Yamagata

This was my favorite festival.  The participants sang and danced.  I loved the song they were singing.  The costumes, the choreography, the town itself … superb!

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Sendai

Sendai — famous for its proximity to Fukushima — was more of a gallery affair than a rollicking good-time festival.  Hanging in the promenades which are ubiquitous in urban settings here in Japan were beautiful hanging paper sculptures, literally thousands of them.

We returned from our excursion just in time for the Dekansho Festival, this one unique to our town and one of my favorite local annual events.  The music is traditional and live, and everyday folks perform the Dekansho folk dance.  The event celebrates the harvesting of the rice and is hundreds of years old, representing the long agricultural roots of this community.






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Life In Japan: Passion For Reading

Does anyone in the U.S. read anymore?  I mean read something longer than a tweet, or a comment on Facebook.  Do people have time to read a book?

Recent statistics tell us that literary reading in the U.S. is in steady decline, despite the fact that the number of people with bachelor degrees or higher has almost doubled since 1982.

To the chagrin of those who think the revolutionary introduction of digital books — ebooks — may make these numbers skewed, these stats include ebooks.

What are people reading?  The ingredients labels on their protein bars?

I can also report that, much to the detriment of the forests in the world, printing on paper is very alive and well here in Japan.  Japanese love their books, magazines, travel guides, self-help owners manuals, printed and hand-held.  People regularly pack bookstores the way Americans flock to Walmart for Black Friday — on a regular basis!

I’m not sure what any of this definitively says about Japanese culture vs. Western culture.

I do know, as a person who used to never go anywhere without a book, and used every spare moment waiting in line, between this something-or-other and that something-or-other, on a coffee or lunch break, traveling, during awkward silences in a conversation, to read, I feel right at home here.

Everyone’s different.  If you feel good about carrying a soccer ball everywhere . . . just do it!






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Creativity: Two Existentialists Walk Into A Bar . . .

Professor Phyllis Dornberger – my PhD thesis adviser – and I certainly had our share of disagreements.  About everything.

I could have been intimidated.  I mean, here was a lady who read the dictionary on her lunch hour like it was People Magazine.

But I was confident and stood my ground, with naïve posturing that was equal parts youthful impudence and iconoclastic exuberance.

Dornberger was a logical positivist.  I’m an existential relativist.

It should have been no contest.

Indeed, it wasn’t.

Yes, in the end, she got the best of me.  The price for my impatience, my lack of self-control, my smug display of tactlessness, my colossal tactical faux pas in the requisite art of jockeying for advantage – which is really all philosophical discourse is about anyway – was asymmetrical in the extreme, with no room for negotiation, no room for remediation, no recourse or appeal.  Philosophers don’t mess around.  Especially logical positivists.

My comment was innocent enough.

But what floats frivolously in casual repartee bubbles like the caustic acid of vitriol and mockery on a page – especially an intra-departmental memo.

What can I say in my defense?

Too much bubbly spirits is sometimes a good excuse.  But in this case, a roll of duct tape with the Kölsch pale ale would have helped to mitigate my infantile error in judgment.  Hindsight is so powerful but ultimately useless.

I now know . . .

I never should have called Professor Dornberger an insatiable proof sucker searching for the perfect syllogism, if only she could figure out how to deep throat a syllo.

Yes, this was the shameful closing scene of my career as a philosopher . . .






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Life In Japan: Rice and Bean Fields

When I say I live in farm country, it’s no exaggeration.

That’s my house in the photo, and that’s my neighbor plowing the field in preparation for planting rice.  Someone very close also raises chickens.  I can hear them cawing.  Or cock-a-doodle-doing.  Or whatever chickens do.

Farmers here work hard and like boxers never know when to quit.  I’ll never forget my first visit to Sasayama as a WWOOFer back in 2007. 

I was standing outside with my host, Gen  and Ray Avery, looking onto a sweet potato field, adjacent to his property.  There were two elderly men working on tying soybean plants to keep them from flopping over on the soil.

Pointing at one of them, obviously the older of the two, Gen said, “See that old guy right there.  He’s 105.  And the other one is his son.  I think he’s 84.”

Believe it or not, they’re not an exception.  They’re the rule!  I often see both ladies and gentlemen right in my own village, well into their 80s and 90s, hunched over, some barely able to walk, doing what they do best and obviously still love:  Digging, planting, weeding, hoeing, all the myriad of activities needed to make things grow.  I guess that once farming gets into your blood, it becomes the defining theme of life itself, an essential raison d’être for these folks. 

I have to say, I’ve learned to appreciate the “cycle of life” as never before.  Of course, growing up in the temperate American Midwest, we predictably cruised through the year on the carousel of seasons.  Each one had its characteristic motif.  The contrast between sub-zero winters with two months of snow, and the other three seasons — those also dramatically contrasting with one another — was stark, and a critical component of enjoying life.

But farming in a temperate climate takes this rotation of the seasons to a whole different level. Prepping, plowing, planting, growing, harvesting not only are quite functionally interesting to a guy like me who grew up on exhaust fumes and Motown music, but the aesthetics are breathtaking.

Of course, what you see here is the early growth period.  Rice was planted about two months ago, soybeans a month ago.  Now that we’ve made it through the June rainy season — and survived massive flood-level downpours lasting six days last week — it’s just a matter of maintenance TLC until the fall harvest.

Enough talk.  First here are some of the farmers in my neighborhood.  These photos were all taken within 15 minutes of my house by bike, in every direction.

Yes, I truly live in farm country!

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And here are some landscapes, which is exactly what I see on my daily bicycle rides, which are usually between 20 km (12.4 miles) and 32 km (19.9 miles).

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Book Review: “The Russian Peace Threat: Pentagon on Alert” by Ron Ridenour

Ron Ridenour’s masterfully-written indictment of U.S. militarism and its take-all-prisoners imperial project is of such breathtaking scope and astonishing depth, it would be hard to exaggerate its value and timeliness, as the foreign policy of the Empire of Chaos now as never before in recorded history, steers the world toward apocalyptic confrontation and puts the survival of the entire human race at risk.

Those readers still in the embrace of the most toxic pile of propaganda ever assembled by a world power, that America is a force of good, spreading democracy, defending human rights, standing with the oppressed and marginalized, should have medics in the room with them to apply emergency procedures as the truth pours off the pages of this book.  Ridenour pulls no punches and with meticulous research and documentation, leaves little doubt that his narrative offers nothing less than the explicit and savage truth of over a century of exploits and exploitation.  We see brutal, barbaric, merciless application of military and economic power, with the clear and unambiguous goal of world domination — the U.S. as the ultimate empire blessed by God and history and the Fates, exempt from the rules of international law and judgment by anyone who would challenge it.  While the focus is Russia, this book covers a lot more ground, offering glimpses into many theaters of confrontation and conflict: China, Japan, Indonesia, Vietnam, of course the Middle East, as well as many countries in its more immediate sphere of influence, Central and South America.  With its 800+ bases currently sprawling across the planet, we’re hard-pressed to find anywhere where the heavy foot of American power does not exercise its self-serving prerogative.

Those readers who already are familiar with the scope of U.S. hypocrisy, who understand that behind the smiley face of official beneficence and goodness lies an agenda that serves a ruling elite at the expense of the vast number of everyday citizens, both inside the U.S. and out, will still benefit enormously from this book.  Much of it might constitute a refresher course, but I suspect many, myself included, will be pleasantly — or unpleasantly — rewarded with both disturbing factual knowledge and Ridenour’s fresh insights and analysis.  It may be for such readers “preaching to the choir” but I’ve never heard a choir that didn’t need to be tuned up from time to time.

Ridenour quotes “The Naked Human”, a poem written by Gustav Munch-Petersen.

I am only a human
but I shall one day
raise earth’s mountains
and let them shake
in the ears of those who sleep

I am only a human
but I shall one day
take the sun down from heaven
and light up all the dark holes
with merciless white light

I am only a human
but I shall one day
steal the gods lightning
and sweep the earth clean of dust

If I may do some metaphorical borrowing, I’d say that with The Russian Peace Threat: Pentagon on Alert Ron Ridenour has raised some mountains, taken the sun down from heaven, and stolen lightning from the gods.  Let’s hope his exceptional scholarship and writing wakes up some people, lights up the dark holes, and sweeps away the dust.

Our survival as a species depends on it.






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Book Review: “Healing the Land with Tao” by Gary Lindorff

“We are like quantum physicists, acknowledging that our presence, or our consciousness, can, and does change the reality of everything that we interact with. But poets and dreamers go way beyond that: We want to affect the great experiment. We go out of our way to change it because we yearn for it to succeed! … We have learned that when we look at the world, it looks back…. We have learned that when we step into the world, the energy of the world does more than just support us, it gathers ecstatically around our feet, it pulls and pushes us to interact and engage and feel.” – Gary Lindorff

I studied metaphysics as part of my degree program in philosophy.  Comparative religions, existentialism got some air time, with token nods to classical ancient philosophy, all of which added to a cornucopia of possible, if implausibly and highly impractical, world views.  In my youthful impatience, enamored as I was with post-modernism and the miraculous leaps of technology I was witnessing, I found this extremely distracting, in fact downright annoying, since they all borrowed much from the prevailing mythologies of long expired physical empires and intellectual traditions.  I judged that unfortunately, as building blocks for the formal architecture of Western thought, they ultimately lay a much too durable foundation for the centuries of cul-de-sac erudition and tedious sophistry which characterizes much of formal philosophical inquiry.

How could I be so dismissive?  Well, I was young and impressionable and fell in with a bad crowd, hence discovered the 20th Century tools which would undermine the entire basis for asking the “big questions”, a methodology which smugly rendered the entire pursuit of philosophical understanding henceforth a fool’s quest.  This was the suite of WMDs known among what I would now consider the anarchists of modern philosophy, the ordinary language analysis storm troopers.  These were the brash, anti-establishment butchers of speculative and normative traditions from Plato to Russell, Aristotle to Whitehead, Aquinas to Kant, Hegel, Hume, Locke, and Descartes.  All these silly old fools were targets of a faddish but no less galvanizing snideness and smug derision, they were the laughingstock of a rip-roaring dialectical rodeo, purveyors of the philosophical joke that went on too long, creators of reams and reams of mind-numbing argumentation and treatises, producing one punch line after another, an endless rolling carnival which had ultimately become dated and irrelevant and frankly not any longer very entertaining.

I was so cloistered in this cult that at university, I was totally unaware of Noam Chomsky’s political work.  He was merely a gateway drug for the work of J.L. Austin and Ludwig Wittgenstein, and their mechanistic mauling and demolition of philosophical problems using language analysis.  Talk about taking the creative excitement out of philosophy and turning it into a crossword puzzle or a good game of Scrabble!  But infantry soldiers don’t debate political systems.  They shoot to kill.

I eventually recovered.  Now I’ve settled into merely being a materialist.  That’s not ‘materialistic’.  I’m far from that, trust me. But I live and function primarily — we’re talking 99.9999% — in a material world. In my crucial formative years, science was with exponential leaps proving its potency.  Relativism — modulated by logical positivism — was the new black.  Empiricism won the day. Computers would eventually eliminate grey with the efficacy of binary.  Now the God Particle joins the other billiard balls on the cosmic pool table and blockchain is even redefining what money is.  I should regress to reading Tarot cards?  I didn’t in the least miss the rabbits foot I had lost as a boy.  Now I had a iPad.

Yep, I’m hooked.  Smitten.  Sold.  Even if it doesn’t produce a very charming death bed scene, I’ll go with science over seance.  Magic and miracles are for the desultory denialists and the leisurely lulled.

So . . .

This is what I brought to the game as I began to work my way through Healing the Land with Tao, looking for places to insert my toes and outcroppings for my fingertips, so I could begin the healing climb.  I wasn’t even sure I wanted to do this. Was there a view at the top?

But hallelujah!  Because Gary Lindorff is so lucid, his writing so accessible, much to my surprise and relief I found I didn’t need any special skills, footholds and finger-friendly features, much less safety nets or rappeling gear.

Frankly, the far-reaching explorations in this book arrive on their own terms, self-packaged, user-friendly, turnkey savvy.  Because the “things” in the nature of things are syllogistically and ultimately “personal” — if I can use such a mundane word — and whether we choose to ignore them or not, most of what he talks about constitutes with or without our acknowledgement, the entire foundation for that epic collection of experiences we call ‘life’.

There’s a great quote that sums up what I’m trying to say here.  It opens Chapter 5:

Where are we? We are in the middle world. Is it the same place for you as it is for me?”

This is fascinating on a number of levels.  The second question, of course, alludes to the essential epistemological quandary.

Yet in the framework of the Taoist perspective we are prompted to ask:  Despite all of the hand-wringing by philosophers that has transpired over the centuries over this, is this really something that needs to be resolved?  While it’s an intrinsic component — some might say consuming pathology — of Western intellectual tradition to leave no problem unsolved, no question unanswered, such obsessive-compulsive behavior has often produced more conceptual havoc, confusion and directionless daydreaming, than comforting, satisfying results.

Because if there is certainty about anything, it is about this:  Ultimately, this question is unsolvable and even modeling its unsolvability results in an incomprehensible formulation.  Such an overarching analysis may indeed be entirely correct.  But it still remains incomprehensible.  Such are the limitations of the human mind.  I think of my cat, who would prefer I ball up pages containing the mathematics of general relativity so he could chase them across our polished wood floor.  There’s an analog in that example that applies neatly to human beings, if we’re humble enough to admit it into our normally pompous, self-congratulatory view of ourselves, and embrace it for the peace of mind it ultimately could offer.  Real Buddhists get this.  Taoists too.

So I accept that the world that Gary Lindorff lives in and experiences is the same world I live in and experience, though I may not see and experience it that way.

Chapter 5 ends with this:

 The tonal is something we all share; nothing can be gained by brushing it aside unless it has become dangerous and toxic to our well-being. It is the great collective dream that grounds us, it is the ‘here’ we call home. But one’s experience of the nagual – that is unique.”

When discussing a couplet by Basho, Lindorff again delves into the impenetrable nature of perceptual ambiguities:

“It is as if an ineffable fragrance were rising from the couplet and quietly flowing on. . . . This mysterious fragrance reminds us that nobody experiences anything exactly the same. It is ineffable because it is indefinable, and we don’t want to define it, as then we are trying to objectify or package it.”

Oh how we objectify and package — and with vile insensitivity commodify — everything now.  Supposedly nothing should be left to chance or interpretation.  What kind of out-of-control world would it be were human imagination to run free, the boundaries of quantization and digitization penetrated and pierced by purity of spirit and innocence of intention?

Oh yes! Sheer chaos!  (Or so my university mentors would scream.)

I’m trapped between dualities which shouldn’t — maybe don’t — a priori exist.

My flippant gravitas says I should walk the straight and narrow, gaze unwavering as I walk the rigid dialectic plank of logical positivism.  Admittedly, this is harsh irony for someone who doesn’t just like to get outside the box, but thrives on turning back on it and dousing it with napalm.  On the other hand, my quixotic side indeed prompts me to appreciate such poetic and abstruse musings as we find in Healing the Land with Tao, attaching to them gracious vindication for the ontological bipolarity that has engulfed me over the years — oh forgive me, all who’ve endured my ponderous pontifications and apocalyptic opuses — to abandon cold cynicism and surrender to the seduction of mysteries I cannot access, much less comprehend and resolve: Just leap and learn to fly.  Or embrace the certainty of gravity in a world so anxious and insecure behind its mask of arrogant stolidity.

After all . . .

Who am I to look a gift horse in the mouth?  How humbling it truly is to peer into Gary Lindorff’s world, to vicariously — perhaps several layers removed — share with him a reality to which I’m deaf and blind, therefore rendered too myopic and mute to intelligently analyze and discuss.

Then again . . .

Why should I be so gracious?  Shouldn’t I just snarl and sneer, make some snarky aside, and get on with the business of living amongst vertically-mobile beings armed with smart phones, steadily making improvements on self-driving cars, taking selfies — soon to be in 3-D? — and dumping them into the streaming deluge of irrelevance which keeps most of us so amazed with ourselves that we no longer have a need to appreciate a flower, a tree, a sunset, a smile, a child, an invisible voice whispering words of wisdom and warning, comfort and distress, light and dark, yin and yang?  A voice as lucid as it is inscrutable, as certain as it is ambiguous and suspect, as candid as it is taciturn?

Gary Lindorff can hear the voices in the wind, the secret histories of the trees, the song in the earth, all that fulfills the promise of that entire universe created in Seven Days, so one trending mythology would have it.

Words.  Are we talking about enchantment . . . delusion . . . fantasy . . . actualization . . . transubstantiation . . . an alchemy that transforms the soul, an amalgamation?  Does the right word make any difference?

Here’s a word which is not, cannot, nor should it ever be resolved, fixed or finalized: Possible.

That alludes to the essential reward to me personally for reading this fine work by Gary Lindorff.

As a logical positivist, an empiricist, a pragmatist, I can only be grateful that these afflictions have not entirely closed me off to what is possible.

Because isn’t possibility that vast expanse into which we grow as humans, becoming gradually, irreversibly what we never imagined we could become?

Gary writes:

“Lucidity is the ability to enter into consciousness as a dimension.”

What does that mean?  Does it mean the same to you as it does to me?

Can we know?  Can we prove that knowing is some end-all, even necessary?  Some questions will never be answered.  At the same time, some answers may be orphaned, bereft of questions.  We may already have all of the answers.  We may have too many answers.  The world the human mind fashions is brimming with answers.  Some sing.  Some dance.  Some just quietly inform all that we experience.

“Let me suggest that a masterful haiku is a super-metaphor. We are given what we need to make the leap. When we encounter a super-metaphor in a poem or as a poem (whether by Rilke, Basho or Emily Dickinson) it reboots our imagination, tricking the brain into taking a leap of faith from what it already knows to what the soul knows, and this benefits the brain in the same way that advanced yoga benefits the body. If we are lucky, that experience is ecstatic.”

Intentionally or not, Gary Lindorff has created a loosely structured operating manual for the soul.

We’ll all get different messages and meanings.  We will benefit disproportionately.  I’m admittedly not very well-prepared for a work of such spiritual depth and profundity, such bold, a priori, ecstatic leaps.  My materialist world view puts the best aspects of that collection of energy that is John Rachel, in solitary confinement.  The food is pretty lousy in here, the walls are gun-metal gray, and I don’t get much to read.  But if I could choose only one book to help break the chains of my mental and spiritual incarceration, it would be Healing the Land with Tao.

In a word, Gary Lindorff’s book is brilliant.  It made an honest man out of a logical positivist like me.

How is that for the healing power of the Tao?






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Life In Japan: Sports Festivals

Above is the annual sports festival at a local junior high school here in Sasayama. These much-anticipated events take place at every school in the country around the middle of September — even pre-school and kindergarten!

To say they’re popular is an understatement. They are as much part of the fabric of social life here as eating rice and fish.

The events at a Japanese sports festival include some “normal” sports contests, e.g. relay races, tug-of-war, team rope jumping. But they as well have quite an assortment of unique, and I have to say, quite amusing activities I wouldn’t expect to show up in the Olympics anytime soon. There’s the hacky sack basket toss, the three-legged kick-the-ball then shoot-a-hoop match, a relay race carrying a tennis ball on a tennis racket while running at full-speed around the circumference of the field.

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Sports festivals are not restricted to just students. Villages compete against one another, meaning full-grown adults also participate in the action. I can’t say the village I live in does very well in these competitions. We may have the most geriatric team in all of Japan. But we have a great time, which is mainly what these all-ages competitive events are all about.

Here’s a mercifully short video of my legendary performance at a recent community sports festival. If it’s not entirely obvious, my challenge — for which I trained with the best coaches east of Nagasaki — was to inflate a balloon, pop it by sitting on it, then scramble back to the starting line, tagging my next teammate in line, who we hoped would repeat my gold medal-level performance, and lock in first place for this epic showdown.

What can I say? It seems no matter what the season is, there’s always something going on here, and whatever it is is typically is built around some excuse for people to get together, have a good time, and simply enjoy the company of those living in the community.

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Life In Japan: Western Food

Eat, Pray, Die!

There’s no doubt about it. In its greasy, salty, sugary way, Western food tastes great!

Or at least many seem to think so . . . even here in Asia.

This isn’t to suggest that Western food, especially fast food, is in the least healthy. It’s not. Countries which adopt a Western diet — surprise surprise! — end up with a skyrocketing of diseases that are the main killers in the West: high blood pressure, diabetes, hardening of the arteries, heart failure, cancer, obesity.

Health concerns aside, it still astonishes me that standing in Beijing or Tokyo or Seoul, I see McDonald’s, Burger King, and KFC. I never ate at these places when I lived in the U.S. — well, at least for the past several decades — and certainly don’t miss them now that I live in Japan and continue to travel extensively in the East. Of course, the “Westernization” — and its most aggressive mutant strain “Americanization” — of every square inch of the planet, is common knowledge and endlessly debated pro and con. At the same time, the extent of this cultural pollution still doesn’t really hit you until you go tens of thousands of miles from home and see some typical U.S. fast food joint next to a Buddhist temple, or yellow arches thrown in with pagodas on the city skyline.

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Even more astonishing to me is observing Western tourists. Here they are in some exotic place, rich in culture and unique tradition — which most certainly is reflected in what the indigenous people eat — and there they are in their Hard Rock Café Los Angeles t-shirts, Billabong surfer shorts and Nike sneakers, lining up for a Big Mac and fries. I’ve even seen blogs where backpackers discuss in detail the variations in the Burger King or McDonald’s menus across the globe. I’m not here to judge. But I can’t help but think that maybe these ethnocentric homeland food junkies might be missing out on something.

So far I’ve been focusing on fast food. That’s because it’s so popular, especially in America. Good or bad, America leads the charge into the dystopian future of hedonistic monomania and instant gratification. What could be better than a Happy Meal or finger-licking good fried chicken from Colonel Sanders’ secret recipe? Actually I have an answer for that . . .

Everything else! . . . but that’s just me.

The other end of the spectrum of dining out is also well-represented in Asia, as it is just about every place else in our globalized, homogenized world. There are many high-quality, sometimes very pricey, real restaurants in Japan, serving all sorts of cuisine from all sorts of places. We have Italian, French, Russian, Belgian, Greek, Swedish, Mexican. Because Japanese are such perfectionists, the food is always good. It may not be very authentic — I’m still waiting to be truly blown away by a Japanese rendering of American-style pizza — but trust me, on its own terms it’s usually quite delicious.

With that in mind, I know of one notable exception to this critical assessment. There’s a restaurant which serves both incredibly tasty Western food and it’s centerpiece menu item is most definitely as authentic as it gets. As luck would have it, this place happens to be right here in my home town of Sasayama!

That’s right. It’s a bagel restaurant: RH Bagels!

Mind you, it’s more-often-than-not hard to get a truly great bagel even in the U. S. of A.

Sometimes they’re hard as a rock. Sometimes they have the right texture, tensile strength, and viscosity, but taste more like a dinner roll or a part of an old shoe. Or they’re flavored with all sorts of fruits, nuts, seeds and spices to hide the fact that whoever made it doesn’t know the first thing about making bagels.

In any case, RH Bagel manages somehow here in the middle of rural Japan to get it right. It’s owned by Richie and Hiro — hence the ‘R’ and the ‘H’ — who not only serve amazing food but have created a marvelous setting, a cultural mix of America and Japan, featuring jazz music, great decor, and enough plants to pass for a horticulture institute. The roots of the restaurant are deeply Japanese, as the building is an old rice barn. But everything else is Western-style. Richie is from Staten Island, New York and Hiro has been to America a number of times to study the art and science of restaurant management and cuisine.

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I love Japanese food! I really do. I now regularly eat many things I would have regarded as very special treats for very special occasions — sushi, tempura, edamame, teriyaki — and eat some things I never would have considered before — octopus, squid, rice daily.

But every once in a while, I get that hankering for the flavors of North America. It’s hardly an addiction, more of a diversion. I make no excuses. Six decades had to have made some impression on my eating habits and tastes.

It’s just that now, everything has flipped around. Now it’s a hamburger or bagel that’s the uncommon special treat or the item deemed for a rare special occasion. Sushi is available 24/7 just about anywhere that sells food — supermarkets and convenience stores like 7-11.

Hmm . . .

I wonder how eel sushi and cream cheese would taste on a cranberry bagel with French fries, Hawaiian pizza and pickled radish on the side. Maybe wash that down with a Coke and sake ice cream float.

I need to talk with Richie and Hiro about this.

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Life In Japan: The Nesting Tree

We have an enormous variety of birds here in Japan.  Not just homegrown types.  Some very interesting breeds, for example, migrate from China and Siberia.  Colorful, exotic, fascinating to watch.  My house is on the edge of a forest, in a very quiet setting.  I often just sit and view them from my rear window as they come and go.

There are two large, majestic birds that most definitely migrated here many decades ago but now are permanent residents.  They can be seen everywhere, along the riverbanks, in the rice fields, soaring high overhead above our rustic town.

I’m referring to the great egrets and gray herons, which must number in the hundreds here in Sasayama.

They have a nesting tree — actually several in various locations in the region — very close to my home.  I pass it everyday when I ride into town to buy groceries and other sundries. 

Every spring the great egrets build nests, lay eggs, and give birth to their next generation.  I’ve never seen any gray herons there.  I’m not certain where their maternity ward is.

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Anyway, here’s a short movie.  Both Tom Cruise and Bruce Willis turned me down for the lead role.  It is what it is.






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